Monthly Archives: February 2011

My Neck Of The Woods

Published / by Jehangir

Here is a series of images from the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries that focus on the the southern part of Srinagar city. The total absence of any kind of human settlement is striking.

Photograph taken from the Takht-e-Suleman (Shankracharya Hill) circa 1865

An engraving in 'Letters from India and Kashmir' by J. Duguid, 1870. The caption in the book reads ' The curves of the Jehlum, the inspiration for the shawl or pine pattern…'

From a stereoscopic photograph taken by James Ricalton in 1903. The caption reads 'An earthly paradise, famous Vale of Cashmere, watered by the winding Jhelum, India'

The area in the centre of the images, enclosed almost fully by a loop of the Jehlum, is the locality of Shivpora – my neck of the woods.

The first house built in Shivpora was 'The Chenars'. As the name would suggest it was built on the banks of the Jehlum, under a row of enormous chinar trees.

A hundred years later…

The population of Srinagar has exploded from 1,18,960 at the start of the twentieth century to 10,81,562 at the present time.

To illustrate the frenetic pace of construction in and around Srinagar:

My home in 2005, surrounded by a veritable forest of trees.

The same area in 2010. A colony exists where only a couple of houses stood a few years ago.

It is painfully evident that, even allowing for the change in seasons, trees have borne the brunt of our insatiable desire for construction. Maybe I should reconsider the title of this post. My Neck of the 'Woods' seems a bit ironic when the woods are vanishing at an alarming rate.

Unfortunately my old home had to be demolished due to age-related structural damage compounded by the devastating earthquake that struck Kashmir in 2005.

The house in the centre of the colony is my new home. It is still under construction. Here's a sneak peek:

P.S: The low quality of the photographs is due to the fact that cameras are no longer allowed on the Shankracharya Hill.

Motorsport in Kashmir – I

Published / by Jehangir

The Jhelum Valley Cart Road from Kohala to Baramulla, described at the time as 'the most wonderful mountain road in the world', was completed in 1889 and was extended to Srinagar in 1897.

Prior to the advent of the automobile in Kashmir, circa 1915, travellers to Kashmir made the journey in a two-horse four-seater tonga or a single-horse two-seater ekka.

In 1922, public transport was allowed on the Banihal Cart Road, which connected Srinagar with Jammu.

Traffic across the Banihal Cart Road

It was the Maharaja's of Kashmir (surprise, surprise) who owned the first cars in the Valley. During the 1920's Maharaja Hari Singh put together a collection of custom-made Rolls-Royce cars including a 1925 Barker Tourer, 1927 Windovers Limousine and a 1929 Thrupp & Maberly Tourer.

In the late 1920s, the Northern Motor Company, headquartered in Rawalpindi, started selling small four-cylinder Chevrolet tourers from a showroom in the Ganda Singh Building in Lal Chowk.

Chevrolet Tourer on the Jhelum Valley Cart Road

From an endurance point of view the greatest motor adventure of the Pre-war era was the 1931 Citroën-Haardt Trans-Asiatic Expedition. The achievement of crossing the Himalayas between Srinagar and Gilgit over a pony track across the Burzil Pass (13775 ft) will probably never be surpassed.

Georges-Marie Haardt and his team set out for China from Srinagar on the 12th of July 1931 in specially designed Citroën Kegresse half-tracks. This expedition marked the first motorised crossing of the Greater Himalaya range.

This famous photograph from the Citroën-Haardt Expedition has inspired book covers and movie posters.

Here is a video of the expedition on YouTube. Watch out for 2.15:

Update: Watch a longer (better quality) version here. Don’t miss 7.20.

More motor stuff here. Enjoy !

Motorsport in Kashmir

Published / by Jehangir

The Jhelum Valley Cart Road from Kohala to Baramulla, then famous as 'the most wonderful mountain road in the world', was completed in 1889 and was extended to Srinagar in 1897. Prior to the advent of the automobile in Kashmir, circa 1915, travellers to Kashmir made the journey in a two-horse four-seater tonga or a single-horse two-seater ekka.
In 1922, public transport was allowed on the Banihal Cart Road, which connected Srinagar with Jammu.

Traffic across the Banihal Cart Road

It was the Maharaja's of Kashmir (surprise, surprise) who owned the first cars in the Valley. During the 1920's Maharaja Hari Singh put together a collection of custom-made Rolls-Royce cars including a 1925 Barker Tourer, 1927 Windovers Limousine and a 1929 Thrupp & Maberly Tourer.

In the late 1920s, the Northern Motor Company, headquartered in Rawalpindi, opened a showroom in the Ganda Singh Building in Lal Chowk. They sold small four-cylinder Chevrolet tourers to local customers for a few thousand rupees.


Chevrolet Tourer on the Jhelum Valley Cart Road

From an endurance point of view the greatest motor adventure was the 1931 Citroën-Haardt Trans-Asiatic Expedition. The achievement of crossing the Himalayas between Srinagar and Gilgit over a pony track across the Burzil Pass (13775 ft) will probably never be surpassed.


Georges-Marie Haardt and his team set out for China from Srinagar on the 12th of July 1931 in specially designed Citroën Kegresse half-tracks. This expedition marked the first motorised crossing of the Greater Himalaya range.



This famous photograph from the Citroën-Haardt Expedition has inspired book covers and movie posters.


Here is a video of the expedition on YouTube. Watch out for 2.15:

More motor stuff next time. Enjoy !